A foodie guide to 24 hours in Copenhagen’s Nørrebro district

Copenhagen’s Nørrebro district is fast becoming known for being one of the hippest neighbourhoods in Europe, let alone the city. As Nørrebro’s streets are flooded with independent food spots, and this trendy district is gaining a foodie following around the globe. The array of delicious food on offer here? Amazing. Having to choose where to eat if you only have a limited time in the neighbourhood? Not so great.

Luckily, as a former resident of this foodie hotspot, I’ve been fortunate enough to try a pretty wide selection of what Nørrebro has to offer. In this article I let you in on the best places to grab breakfast, lunch and dinner in Nørrebro, not to mention everything in-between. Hope you’re hungry!

For your morning coffee…

Head to Coffee Collective‘s original location on trendy Jægersborggade, a street known for its quirky shops and independent businesses, as well as its foodie vibes. Coffee Collective is a Copenhagen-based roastery that now owns a number of hip cafes in the Danish capital, not to mention providing beans at a number of others, and is well known for serving up some of the best coffee the city has to offer.  On the way to your caffeine fix, grab a pre-breakfast breakfast (just me?) at nearby Meyers Bageri, also on Jægersborggade. This bakery has a constant stream of locals popping in for a treat before work, namely its famous Kanelsnurrer, a delicious cinnamon bun made fresh each morning. Another Copenhagen-based chain which has gathered a loyal following, there’s a reason the locals flock to Meyers Bageri, and so should you.

As you let your coffee and pastry go down, browse the quirky shops lining the street -personal favourites include succulent specialists Kaktus (the Danish for, you guessed it, Cactus), and Palermo Hollywood, a concept store selling a range of books, stationery, and homewares.

For breakfast…

Time for a proper breakfast! One option: stay where you are and head to Grød, another of Jæggersborgade’s success stories. Opened in 2011, this cafe serves gourmet porridge to the trendy Nørrebro crowd, offering both sweet and savoury creations as well as the option to design your own. With dishes priced very reasonably for Copenhagen (45-85 DKK depending on your choice of toppings and whether you eat in or take away), it’s no wonder the concept took off and Grød now boasts 4 porridge bars in Copenhagen and another in Aarhus, Denmark’s second-largest city. The Jæggersborgade location is small but beautifully designed, with a minimalist Scandi feel that epitomizes Copenhagen cool. My favourite dish on the menu has to be the oats topped with caramel sauce, apples and roasted almonds – if you have a sweet tooth like me, you won’t regret this choice, and at 55 DKK if you eat in (around £6.50), your wallet won’t either. Yum! (For the porridge/oatmeal fans among you, Oatmeals is another cafe serving up nothing but porridge-based dishes in NYC’s Greenwich Village. You can read all about that in my article about the best breakfasts in the Big Apple here!)

Option two: for a taste of one of Copenhagen’s ever more popular brunch spots, head to Møller Kaffe & Kokken, less than a ten minute stroll away on nearby Nørrebrogade. Upon arriving at the cafe, each guest receives a menu in the form of a checklist of items. You then simply place a tick next to the items you would like to order, and hand this to a member of staff. A few minutes later, your requested dishes arrive at your table, beautifully prepared and so tempting that it almost prevents you from stopping to snap a photo of your table before you dig in. Hey, I said almost! The great thing about eating at Møller is that it’s possible to try a variety of items on the menu rather than just choosing one – my recommendations for the perfect selection include the Nørrebro waffle, red grapefruit and the scrambled eggs. So good!

Once you’ve finished your breakfast, both Grød and Møller are great starting points for a wander through Assistens Kirkegård, Nørrebro’s famous cemetery and final resting place of famous Danes including writer Hans Christian Andersen and .philosopher Søren Kierkegaard. The cemetery is beautiful in all seasons, and well worth getting lost in for an hour or two.

For lunch…

Once you’ve worked up a bit of an appetite wandering the streets of this colourful district, it’s time to think about lunch. There are a few wonderful lunch options in this part of Copenhagen, all offering light bites and dishes to tide you over nicely until it’s time for dinner.

One favourite of mine has to be Mirabelle, a cute cafe on Guldbergsgade, another Nørrebro street offering up a selection of independent shops and eateries. Describing itself as ‘mostly eatery, bakery too, partly takeaway and a bit of a deli’, Mirabelle serves up a range of different dishes to its customers. Whether you fancy a sit down lunch with a glass of wine or a quick sandwich to go, the cafe offers something for everyone, and if you’re ready for some more caffeine, Mirabelle serves up lovely coffee. It’s also right across the street from Empire Bio, a cozy cinema showing a range of international films. If you do decide to check out the shops on Guldbergsgade, my favourite has to be Urban Room Number 11, a shop selling a range of Scandinavian clothes, homewares and gorgeous prints. On nearby Møllegade, you’ll find non-profit bookshop Ark Books, a lovely little spot selling mostly English-language books as well as some titles in French, German and Spanish, and a lot of international books translated into English. The staff are friendly, knowledgeable and always happy to make recommendations, and the shop also serves free instant coffee and tea to customers.

Not far from Møllegade you’ll find Griffenfeldsgade, another quirky Norrebro street. There are a couple of great lunch choices here, the first being Fætter Fætter, a cooler-than-cool locale serving nothing but gourmet takes on toast. It sounds strange, but the toasts are delicious, and perfectly sized if you just want something small for lunch – I’d recommend getting 3 or 4 to share between two to start with, and adding more if you’re still hungry. Just across the street lies Cafe Auto, another hip spot serving up delicious soups, salads and more. Not to be missed: their fries, which come served with basil mayonnaise. Delicious! Both of these spots serve up a range of veggie and non-veggie options, so whoever you are visiting with, it should be easy to find something for everyone!

It’s worth mentioning here that both of the breakfast options I mentioned are great for lunch too, so if you have a late start to the day or grab breakfast at your hotel, they are definitely worth considering for lunch! Grød’s menu grows after 11am, when a few extra savoury options are added, whereas Møller’s menu is available all day.

For a sweet treat…

On a warm Scandinavian summer day (yes, they do exist!), you can’t beat an ice cream. Luckily, Nørrebro has you covered. Nicecream serve up amazing vegan ice cream treats on shopping street Elmegade, where you’ll find a range of cool clothes shops including Fünf, a shop selling clothes and accessories by Danish designers, and Acne Archive, an outlet store of the hugely popular Swedish designer label Acne. Vegan or not, these treats are divine, as well as being handmade and organic.For an indulgent treat try an ice cream cookie sandwich, or to tickle your tastebuds order one of the Nice Cream Popsicles, available in all sorts of flavour combinations including toffee strawberry and matcha mint chocolate. Yum!

Back on Jægersborggade (I did say it was a foodie haven…), you’ll find an unusual ice cream option in the form of Istid, which serves up ice cream created with liquid nitrogen. Unfortunately for those of you that are wondering how this is possible, I don’t have the slightest clue, but I do know that this is some of the best ice cream I’ve tasted in Copenhagen, if not ever. The team at Istid switch up the flavours regularly, there are dairy and non-dairy options available, and seeing the ice cream being made is an experience in itself. No excuses not to visit, then!

One thing to keep in mind if you fancy visiting Nicecream or Istid is that they close for part of the year, so if you aren’t visiting in the summer season, I’d definitely check that the stores will be open during your stay in advance!

 

For dinner…

For me, there’s  one place that stands out among all the great dinner options that Norrebro offers, and that’s Bæst. This pizza restaurant has a focus on organic meats and produce, and is located in the building next to Mirabelle on Guldbergsgade. Both Bæst and Mirabelle are run by the same team of restaurateurs at the head of Michelin-starred Relæ, also in Norrebro (mentioned below!). Given the fact that Bæst is owned by a Michelin-starred team, it comes as no surprise that it is one of the best places to eat in the city, but what did surprise me is just how incredible this restaurant is. The pizza is the best I have ever tasted, despite having recently visited Rome and gone on an intensively researched pilgrimage to find the best pizza on offer in the eternal city. Nope, this unlikely spot in Northern Europe competes with the finest that Italy has to offer without so much as breaking a sweat. The restaurant even makes its own mozzarella on site, a creamy, indulgent cheese produced from Danish cows’ milk. Their simplest pizzas are among their best – I would recommend the Marinara, topped simply with tomatoes, garlic, and basil, as well as any of the pizzas topped with the restaurant’s home made mozzarella – you really can’t go wrong. For dessert, it has to be the tiramisu – again, this is just as good as any tiramisu I’ve tasted elsewhere, if not better. Prices are reasonable at Bæst, and the wine list is extensive too. I really cannot recommend this place enough – if you’re in the area, go!

There are two other names worth a mention as dinner options, both back where we began our day on lovely Jægersborggade. Astrid och Apornas Spiseri is an eatery offering vegan burgers and hotdogs,  or as they put it, ‘feel good fast food’. If you are looking for a quick and delicious dinner with a small price tag, Astrids is definitely the place to head: their hot dogs come in at way less than the price of a coffee, and their burgers are only a little more at around 60 DKK. If you’re vegan or veggie, it’s also a great spot to try out a famous Copenhagen hot dog without abandoning your principles: win-win! The second spot I feel I should give a proper mention is Relæ. This is the foodie street’s only restaurant with a Michelin star, and while I haven’t eaten there personally and therefore can’t recommend it fully, I have heard amazing things. It’s definitely on my bucket list of places to try, and as Michelin-starred restaurants go is fairly reasonable at 475 DKK for the tasting menu. It also offers a vegetarian version of its tasting menu – great news for the non-meat eaters among us!

For after dinner drinks…

Cafe Plenum is one of the best bars in Nørrebro, offering up cocktails, nibbles and buckets of hygge due to its low lighting and candle-topped tables. Head here for an after dinner cocktail: on certain nights, Plenum runs a happy hour offer of 100 DKK for two cocktails between 9pm and 11pm, making it the perfect spot for an espresso martini (or two…). You’ll find the bar on Sankt Hans Torv, a square lit up by twinkling strings of lights in the festive season, and just a fifteen minute walk from the central Nørreport station, meaning that getting back to your hotel, airbnb or flat when you’re ready to crash will be fuss free. Perfect.

Enjoy exploring Nørrebro, and be sure to let me know what you think if you try any of these spots! You can get in touch by commenting below, following my Instagram page @afoodieguide or via email at afoodieguide@gmail.com.

Speaking of Instagram, I’ve linked the profiles of each of the places  mentioned in this article (at least those with an Instagram profile!) below ! Happy scrolling!

Coffee Collective

Grød

Møller Kaffe og Køkken

Mirabelle

Fætter Fætter

Cafe Auto

Nicecream

Istid

Bæst

Cafe Plenum

Norrebro Copenhagen.png

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